Your weekly digest of Toronto food news
YOUR WEEKLY DIGEST OF TORONTO FOOD NEWS |
Dear reader, I’ll never understand people who say they don’t eat breakfast. I wouldn’t be able to make it past 8 a.m. without it. I go to sleep every night thinking about what I’m going to eat when I wake up. The problem is that, most days, what I eat is something healthy—steel-cut oats with fruit, high-fibre cereal with plant-based milk and fruit, Greek yogurt with low-fat granola and various seeds and more fruit. I don’t love any of it, but it’s better than nothing. What I’d prefer to start every single day with is a sandwich. I love how you can shove whatever you want between two toasted slices of rye or halves of a bagel or brioche bun—and, as long as you throw some permutation of an egg in there, it goes from something reserved for lunch to a perfectly acceptable breakfast food. Weekend mornings at my house mean breakfast sandwiches. Saturdays and Sundays are when we banish anything remotely nutritious to the back of the fridge—except the eggs: it’s their time to shine. Supporting roles are played by some kind of salty meat (bacon, Hungarian salami, leftover roast chicken), any cheese we can get our hands on, a fat slice of tomato, some arugula, mayo and half a bottle’s worth of hot sauce (always Crystal—nothing else will do). I take as much pleasure in making breakfast sandwiches as I do in eating them. But I have a new obsession that isn’t one of my own creations: the sausage, egg and cheese from Made-Rite. Leemo Han (of Hanmoto, Shaker’s Club, Seoulshakers and Pepper’s) has gone and done it again with this one-year-old Kensington Market café and diner. Han is like King Midas, but instead of gold, everything he touches turns into a hyper-delicious burger, chicken wing, chilli dog or—in this case—breakfast sandwich. Is it Saturday yet? Also in this week’s newsletter: what’s moving into the old Shore Club space. Plus, a new restaurant from a former Alo chef. And a very patriotic pasta tasting menu. |
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| —Rebecca Fleming Food-and-drink editor |
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Before he moved to Toronto, Leemo Han lived with his family in New York, New Jersey and Philadelphia, where he grew accustomed to the simple-is-best sandwiches he could find at any corner store or bodega. To fill that sandwich-sized hole in his heart, he opened Made-Rite, a nostalgic diner and café on the outskirts of Kensington Market. From behind the counter, chef Kevin Flores turns out a menu of hearty sandwiches, including the aforementioned SEC: sausage, egg and cheese on a plain white kaiser with an unhealthy amount of ketchup—a condiment I never considered putting on a breakfast sandwich until now. |
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| The BC-based restaurant group that brought us Black and Blue—the two-storey, 9,000-square-foot, 24-karat-gilded steakhouse in the old TSX space—is launching its newest heifer of a project: Riley’s Fish and Steak, a seafood spot and chophouse that already has a Michelin-recommended location in Vancouver’s chic Coal Harbour neighbourhood. |
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| What better way to show how patriotic you are than by eating plate after plate of pasta? Amano Trattoria is launching a limited-time menu featuring seven courses, each a pasta dish made using all-Canadian ingredients. It’s the Italian restaurant’s culinary elbows-up moment, and we’re here for it. |
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| Chef Rebekah Bruce, who has worked at both Alo and Alobar, will soon open Bar Eugenie in the old Harbord Room space (which was more recently vacated by Piccolo Piano). It’s scheduled to open in July—which is perfect timing, because a 35-seat patio will effectively double the dining room’s capacity. |
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