Dear reader,
I’ll never understand people who say they don’t eat breakfast. I wouldn’t be able to make it past 8 a.m. without it. I go to sleep every night thinking about what I’m going to eat when I wake up. The problem is that, most days, what I eat is something healthy—steel-cut oats with fruit, high-fibre cereal with plant-based milk and fruit, Greek yogurt with low-fat granola and various seeds and more fruit. I don’t love any of it, but it’s better than nothing.
What I’d prefer to start every single day with is a sandwich. I love how you can shove whatever you want between two toasted slices of rye or halves of a bagel or brioche bun—and, as long as you throw some permutation of an egg in there, it goes from something reserved for lunch to a perfectly acceptable breakfast food.
Weekend mornings at my house mean breakfast sandwiches. Saturdays and Sundays are when we banish anything remotely nutritious to the back of the fridge—except the eggs: it’s their time to shine. Supporting roles are played by some kind of salty meat (bacon, Hungarian salami, leftover roast chicken), any cheese we can get our hands on, a fat slice of tomato, some arugula, mayo and half a bottle’s worth of hot sauce (always Crystal—nothing else will do). I take as much pleasure in making breakfast sandwiches as I do in eating them. But I have a new obsession that isn’t one of my own creations: the sausage, egg and cheese from Made-Rite.
Leemo Han (of Hanmoto, Shaker’s Club, Seoulshakers and Pepper’s) has gone and done it again with this one-year-old Kensington Market café and diner. Han is like King Midas, but instead of gold, everything he touches turns into a hyper-delicious burger, chicken wing, chilli dog or—in this case—breakfast sandwich. Is it Saturday yet?
Also in this week’s newsletter: what’s moving into the old Shore Club space. Plus, a new restaurant from a former Alo chef. And a very patriotic pasta tasting menu.
