Producers of rum and cocoa alike are beginning to emphasize natural, local produce and helping revive fading food cultures. Across Haiti, people still talk about former U.S. President Bill Clinton’s 2010 apology for American trade policies that contributed to the decimation of their country’s agriculture. By pressuring Haiti to lower tariffs in the 1990s, the U.S. flooded the country with its food products, including low-quality rice, that the local agriculture industry couldn’t compete with. But Guito Gilot isn’t looking at the past anymore. The 50-year-old is head of business at Cap-Haïtien Cocoa Producers, aka Feccano, the country’s first cocoa cooperative focused on fair trade exports. He believes they have a fix that can help the country reclaim its agricultural self-sufficiency, thanks to a movement that began in Italy. The slow food movement originated in Rome in 1986 with a protest against the opening of a McDonald’s near the famed Spanish Steps. Until this year, Feccano has been an outlier in Haiti as part of the slow food movement, which it joined in 2006. But now, a growing number of Haitian agriculture sector groups are embracing the grassroots movement with organizational headquarters in Bra in northwest Italy, which identifies food cultures that are on the verge of disappearing, and then works with local communities to revive them. |