Toronto the Spoiled

Dear reader,

So much for my Dry January. After a week in Sint Maarten, I’m basically an anthropomorphic pitcher of rum punch—like the Kool-Aid Man, but spiked. It was nice to see the sun again (it rises every day there, how novel!), and we enjoyed eating our way around the island. But, whenever I go away, I’m reminded of what an excellent food scene Toronto has.

Other tourists we met recommended certain restaurants for their burgers or pizza, claiming they were the best they’d ever had–but we already know good burgers and pizza. Instead, we stuck with barbecued ribs, grilled snapper, pumpkin roti, curry oxtail, jerk chicken and fritay with some fire-hot pikliz—but, as it so happens, it’s also possible to find pretty great versions of each of those dishes in Toronto. In conclusion: we are spoiled.

In this week’s newsletter, you’ll read about the city’s trendy new resto-clubs (which are exactly what they sound like), a new French-American bistro inside a historic building and eight interesting takes on steak tartare.

Torontonians are no strangers to getting a raw deal. Here, dreams of the Stanley Cup skate on thin ice, and our traffic woes have put us on the global gridlock map. However, in the world of gastronomy, a “raw deal” isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Our city’s love affair with French cuisine means Toronto is full of top-notch takes on steak tartare. Here, eight of our current favourite versions of the bistro staple, beefed up with modern meaty makeovers.

The last year has seen the arrival of a new kind of establishment in the city—places that are equal parts restaurant and nightclub, where guests can eat very good food while being entertained (pictured under the lampshade is a staff member at work, not an over-served guest), and then burn off dinner with a little dancing. Here, four new resto-clubs where you can fuel up and then boogie down—all without leaving the premises.

Let’s circle back to French food for a minute. Astoria has opened on the main floor of the Great Hall, bringing with it a menu of bistro hits like French onion soup, duck confit and all things frites (steak, moules). Bon appétit.

In the latest issue: confessions from the new and intentionally underemployed labour force. Plus, how bloodsucking parasites are ruining our lives, the city’s best new resto-clubs, memoirs from Gaza, and more. Still not receiving Toronto Life at home? Subscribe today.