Last weekend, I took the kids to a pick-your-own farm in north London. The farm, sprawled across 20 hectares (49 acres), was bursting with summer produce: rows of ripe strawberries, towering sunflowers and more courgettes than we could carry. My kids, thrilled by the prospect of filling baskets to the brim, darted between the raspberry canes and beetroot beds, sneaking fruit from their punnets before we even reached the car. When we got home, the kitchen counter was overflowing with our harvest. There’s something deeply satisfying about preserving the fruits of a day like that, and about knowing that those vibrant flavours will carry us through the cooler months. That afternoon, we set to work making batch after batch of pea and mint soup – the recipe’s in my book Simple – and ended up with enough to last us well into autumn. It’s a lovely way to spend a weekend, though I’m still finding the odd rogue raspberry in a corner of the kitchen, remnant of an impromptu battle. Preserving summer isn’t just about stocking up for the winter, however. It’s about holding on to the warmth, the brightness and the memories of the season. Whether that’s making chutney, pickling vegetables or freezing berries, preservation allows us to carry the flavours of summer into the colder months. People all over the world have their own ways of doing this. In eastern Europe, the end of summer is marked by neighbours coming together to pickle vegetables, turning the harvest into ajvar, a popular relish. In Italy, the making of tomato paste and puree is a communal event, with families gathering to transform the ripe fruit into a sauce. And in Japan, the practice of hoshigaki, or the hanging of persimmons to dry them, preserves not only the fruit but also the bonds between those who prepare it. In our Feast column a few weeks ago, I shared a recipe for atchar, a south-east Asian condiment that can be crafted from nearly any vegetable you have to hand – courgettes, marrows, green beans and even baby corn. This tangy, flavourful preserve adds depth to a bowl of lentils or brings vibrant life to a simple salad, but the best part is it lasts for months, keeping the taste of summer alive long after the days have cooled. |