From the moment the first diaper is pinned around his kicking, spidery legs, the American male spends most of his waking and sleeping hours in clothing selected for him by women. Until his late teens, his mother's purse and prejudices dictate the cut of his coat, the color of his shirts, the weight and weave of his suits, and the hue and length of his hose. Then, for a few brief years of confused freedom, the young man haltingly learns to clothe himself. | | | | | Henry Poole & Co, 15 Savile Row, Mayfair, London, 2007. (bill_comstock/Flickr) | | | | | | “From the moment the first diaper is pinned around his kicking, spidery legs, the American male spends most of his waking and sleeping hours in clothing selected for him by women. Until his late teens, his mother's purse and prejudices dictate the cut of his coat, the color of his shirts, the weight and weave of his suits, and the hue and length of his hose. Then, for a few brief years of confused freedom, the young man haltingly learns to clothe himself.”
| - | Better Living magazine, Sep./Oct. 1959, p.17 |
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| | rantnrave:// A huge shoutout to NOAH JOHNSON for his GQ interview with DENNIS BATES, a genuine style hero and someone who clearly loves getting dressed every day. Bates discovered VISVIM moccasins through GOOGLE search, and after doing research he tried them out. He now owns 33 (going on 34) pairs of VISVIM moccasins, and has a whole collection of swag that he regularly posts on INSTAGRAM. Bates knows clothes in a way that will be familiar to so many of us who put in time to learn about a designer, a cut, a fit, a sizing system, or a fabric. Because it’s fun… I love BRIDGET FOLEY’S DIARY in WWD. Always look forward to reading it. In the latest edition, Foley writes that WWD (blissfully) eschewed this year's top 10 in favor of—wonderment. Or the appreciation of it. Foley wonders if the discourse surrounding fashion isn’t adequately addressing it from a fundamental perspective: the clothes. She calls for a return to a love of clothes. Clothes that make you happy. She and a colleague have a moment over some JUNYA WATANABE patchwork jeans. And yes! Junya brings joy… Made in CANADA, NORTH WALES, or where-have-you, it’s nice to know what’s going on with stuff we buy. CAM WOLF’s piece on NOAH and its commitment to transparency and social causes is the least cynical thing I’ve seen in clothing as of late. Respect… Sure, when you’re discussing global flows and a company that’s motivated by shareholders like NIKE, it’s a very different conversation than if you’re one dude who wants to set up a business in NORTH WALES. The goals are different, and in theory that’s okay… In cashmere news, SANDRIVER is available in the US, shipped from SHANGHAI by way of some well-cared for herds in MONGOLIA. The goats are treated as members of the team… Here’s a recommendation for tracking supply chain sustainability using the HIGG INDEX. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Election turmoil aside, in 2016, genuine fashion took a sorry back seat to instant fashion in the proverbial conversation. | | |
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| Since ancient times, across so many cultures and for myriad reasons, women have covered their hair — an act tied up in competing notions of freedom and oppression. | | |
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| Meet this low-key Instagram style hero with an insane collection of Nike, Visvim, and custom Native American-inspired moccasins. | | |
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| We traveled to London’s Southbank Centre to conduct "What’s Underneath" interviews as an open call in a public setting. We weren’t sure what to expect, but eager participants stepped up to share their stories as an audience accumulated. Watch six women strip down and open up in our first ever open call. | | |
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| We take a look at the biggest fashion fads and crazes of the year and try to predict which ones will be sticking around until 2017. | | |
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| China's leading couture designer explains how she draws upon “universal beauty” in her latest collection. | | |
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| For some, cowboy boots are strictly vacation-only footwear. | | |
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| For companies selling abroad, manufacturing here in Canada may be worth the higher cost, or make no difference. It depends on what they are selling | | |
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| Americans already pay steep import duties on their sneakers-but that has done nothing to protect US manufacturing. | | |
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| Patrick Joseph has created outfits for singers Robbie Williams and Cheryl but now wants to start a shirt venture on Anglesey. | | |
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| A Google search on “space wear” and “space clothes” gives you a hackneyed pictures of kitschy hipster wear mixed with colourful distant galaxy-type prints on leggings and sweatshirts. Space fashion has a stereotype associative row: latex, foil and metal and futuristic cuts impossible to wear in a real life. | | |
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| The ongoing violence and tumult in Syria's largest city belie a richer, more prosperous past. One small object -- a finely woven hat -- offers evidence of life in a thriving cultural hub. | | |
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| Noah is the brand we need right now. | | |
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| As fashion brands allocate more of their ad spend to social media, BoF examines which platforms are most efficient at delivering actual sales. | | |
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| Millionaires from the X generation hold onto traditional luxury events while millionaire millennials are straying away from happenings such as fashion shows and auto races, according to a new report from Shullman Research Center. | | |
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| In fashion, in particular, Pittsburgh is ripe with potential, thanks to an ever-growing community of aspiring designers, independent boutiques, bloggers, stylists and other kinds of visionaries who call this city home. With growth, though, comes growing pains, and Pittsburgh’s fashion scene has had its share of those, too, in 2016. | | |
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| The Fashion Farm Foundation brings together fashion designers under one co-sharing roof in Hong Kong. Some of the results are impressive, with ten labels showing at the Paris spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear shows, as K reports. | | |
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| “We’re not going to let this mall fail ... when we crow, we want it to be daylight. We’re bullish on this property and we’re bullish on Kingsport.” That’s what Hull Property Group Owner and Managing Principal James Hull said about the Kingsport Town Center, also known as the Fort Henry Mall. | | |
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| I had never thought about it before but it’s true: police officers are always clean-shaven. But why is this the case? | | |
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| Why can’t we get rid of the idea of authenticity? It seems as if it settles like a fog, blanketing everything with an amorphous sense of inadequacy. It can feel like it refers to everything and nothing. | | |
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| © Copyright 2016, The REDEF Group |
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