There’s this expectation from the media and the retailers when you are doing your own collection: You have to make a big statement. You have to be identified by print or color or silhouette or whatever is your signature... this is kind of the opposite. Now we’re interested in 'no statement.' | | | | Patrick Kelly with models, Paris, c.1987.
(Julio Donoso/Sygma/Getty Images) | | | | | | “There’s this expectation from the media and the retailers when you are doing your own collection: You have to make a big statement. You have to be identified by print or color or silhouette or whatever is your signature... this is kind of the opposite. Now we’re interested in 'no statement.'”
|
| |
| | rantnrave:// RICK OWENS and JIL SANDER recreated past designs for their retrospective exhibitions, dedicating new garments to work that—in the absence of archives—had been sold or lost to time. Retrospect has always been a powerful force in fashion. Yet I wonder if the recreation of past designs, to spec, has happened before with such regularity. For his runway return in PARIS, ANDRE WALKER relied on garments lent to him by friends who’d collected his work over the years, in order to recreate designs originally from the 1980s. PENDLETON supplied the fabric in 2017, so Walker's collection is both revival and brand new. Street/sportswear is seeing success in getting retro, with NAUTICA and POLO dropping capsule collections recreated from the past. FILA is selling vintage online, and brand after brand is reissuing or re-imagining some prior look. It's part nostalgia, part respect for heritage, part flattening effect of e-commerce and online vintage, where customers can discover a brand from any point in time as long as it's online. And there's plenty to explore: "sold out" product pages, vintage on EBAY, ETSY, GRAILED, nostalgic fashion photos on INSTAGRAM. The social context for these garments has amplified and changed, and it would be great to see more of those stories told in street/sportswear. From a market perspective, there can be discrepancies in quality between then and now. Are labels adequately addressing this when a 20-year-old hoodie can be had in the same checkout as the latest drop online? Or when labels like NOAH are bringing back the quality of sportswear from an earlier time?... JONATHAN SAUNDERS exited DVF after 18 months and three collections. It's a challenging moment for mid-market fashion, which at alternate times has been called the "bridge" or "contemporary" market. Now it looks like the pressure-from-all-levels market. High fashion competes on branding and (often but not always) quality. Fast fashion competes on price. Streetwear is scooping out all levels. According to top buyers at several notable e-commerce stores, hyped items like BALENCIAGA's TRIPLE-S sneaker have been selling out and driving growth. DVF could use a hit. Like those jersey wrap dresses once upon a time... In brief: MICHAEL KORS announced the company is going fur-free... HYPEBEAST selects 10 emerging brands for 2017... Applications are open for the LVMH PRIZE... SEOUL's B-boys. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
|
|
| The designer’s exhibition in Milan, which opens today, includes his fashion designs but also a sculptural intrusion - globular, coiled, ominous. | | |
|
| Net-a-Porter, MatchesFashion.com, Farfetch, Moda Operandi, and Ssense discuss their best fashion sellers and designers in 2017. | | |
|
| Costume designer Mark Bridges talks about the process of making “Phantom Thread.” | | |
|
| Jonathan Saunders is exiting his role as chief creative officer of DVF, effective immediately. | | |
|
| As the first female creative director at the house of Dior, the Italian designer is injecting feminism into fashion-not for an ideal woman, but for every woman. | | |
|
| A few years ago, British writer Alain de Botton penned an essay on why we hate cheap things. His point was simple: we don’t think we’re snobs, but we often behave like we are. We conflate worth with price and assume cheap things can’t be any good – after all, there must be a reason why they’re cheap. | | |
|
| And there's no reason to think that it won't continue into 2018 -- and beyond. | | |
|
| The iconic brand has new fans among those who know The Clash only as one of the bands on the "Stranger Things 2" soundtrack. | | |
|
| A workwear design that has been altered little since the 17th Century and spread across the globe: a timeless classic or has the suit had its day? | | |
|
| If you're among those who shop for cosmetics online, you may have noticed fragrance descriptions like this: His telegrams came repeatedly and she persisted in ignoring them. He knew what she was capable of, but she refused to work his way. This time, despite herself, she gave in. | | |
|
| Retail’s cruelest policy. | | |
|
| Fashion's thorny relationship with body size is dispiriting for consumers and bad for business, argues Alexandra Shulman. | | |
|
| With sexual harassment revelations rife and public spaces threatened, some women are wondering just why they wear these things. | | |
|
| Plus, get your first look at ‘SUBHUMAN INHUMAN SUPERHUMAN’ in a new short film. | | |
|
| The outspoken but enigmatic digitized musician also known as @lilmiquela talks to i-D about her first clothing collection. | | |
|
| No more hiding that one-hitter. | | |
|
| America's last standing denim textile mill will shut off its looms for the last time on December 31. White Oak Cone Mills was the go-to for selvedge denim brands, but the numbers were too small. Two hundred people will lose their jobs--one denim maker speaks out about how they could have kept them. | | |
|
| 2017 was a landmark year for luxury brands establishing direct e-commerce channels in China. As the market matures, the next year will be followed by a continued crackdown on counterfeits, an evolution of the luxury capabilities of players like Alibaba, JD.com and WeChat, and a definition of what it means to sell luxury online in China. | | |
|
| Hennes & Mauritz AB's conundrum is summed up by its position in New York's Staten Island Mall. A glitzy new Primark is located just a stone's throw from a dowdy H&M. Next to the store opened by the value clothing arm of Associated British Foods Plc in March, it looks dull and expensive. | | |
|
| Sandra Sandor wasted no time after completing her fashion degree in London to establish herself as one of the New East's brightest young designers, heading straight back to her native Budapest to launch her own fashion brand: Nanushka. | | |
|
| © Copyright 2017, The REDEF Group |
|
|
