I lack the daring of a dandy, the instincts of the iconoclast, the budget for the bespoke, so I’m hostage to the market. And my choices are scant. But it is a stroke of capitalist brilliance, men’s fashion: Whether we want to feel 'au courant' or disdain the entire enterprise, we dress exactly the same.
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Airport patches, 2008. (Becky Stern/Flickr)
Tuesday - December 13, 2016 Tue - 12/13/16
rantnrave:// I’m still considering the OPENING CEREMONY x GOOGLE smartphone cases, not because smartphones are so closely identified with our bodies that we wear them like clothing (tho it’s true). It’s also not because people often change their smartphones in and out of various snappy ensembles—read: phone cases (tho that’s also true). No, it’s because of this statement: "Shoppers on the Google Store can customize each by zooming in on, dragging and rotating the patterns." Dynamic patterns for fashion, facilitated by digital image manipulation, is a smart choice—yeah it’s customizable, blah, blah. But it also brings the animated, dynamic visual quality of our screens to our smartphone cases (and clothing). That very zooming, dragging, swiping, and rotating is a way of seeing, and it’s a culture, from GIFs to SNAPCHAT filters. Reminds me of what’s on offer from PRINT ALL OVER ME, where you can upload any image to be printed on an array of garments and accessories by using an image editor to customize. The design of garments has been prefaced by algorithmic processes for a long time—the industry started adopting CAD in the 1970s, and Product Lifecycle Management software by powerhouses like SAP have enabled global scale and instantaneous communication for companies. Whenever tech packs are made, the "digital" is at work. The point being? There’s a holistic way of looking at fashion and digital technology, and those smartphone cases get it right in terms of process. The interface needs to be good, so if anyone has tried it, LMK… In brief: excellent read from RUMAAN ALAM on the redemptive qualities of beauty, dreaming, and ALESSANDRO MICHELE’s GUCCI… PVH signed on to the UN Global Compact… KERING is open to the public in some ways more than others… THE ROW is offering a selection of vintage jewelry in its LA and NYC stores. Love this from MARY-KATE OLSEN: “All of our clients are the ideal client.” Think about that in your next convo about demographics.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
belle
New York Magazine
Pining for Gucci in Trump’s New World
by Rumaan Alam
Alessandro Michele has made life just a little bit brighter.
LA Weekly
L.A. Fashion District a Fire Trap for Garment Workers, Study Finds
by Jason McGahan
It's alarming to think what would happen if there were an earthquake or a fire."
Fashionista
I Survived the Opening of Kylie Jenner's Pop-Up Shop
by Gabriela Herstik
One writer tells her tale of braving the crowds in an attempt to get inside the 19-year-old's holiday store.
Racked
I Couldn't Get Into the Kylie Jenner Pop-Up Store
by Zan Romanoff
Kylie and her lip kits are all about access, and I didn’t have it.
WWD
ICSC Sees Change on the Horizon
by Sharon Edelson
Real estate developers working on projects across the country see reasons for optimism — but plenty of reasons for pessimism, too. New retail concepts were few and far between.
WWD
British PM Theresa May’s Leather Trousers Spark War of Words
by Samantha Conti
Theresa May’s Amanda Wakeley leather trousers are causing a stir.
Tank Magazine
'Highly crafted, diaphanous and dark': Interview with Phoebe English
by Tamsin Blanchard
Phoebe English is a British fashion designer who founded her eponymous line in 2011, after graduating from Central Saint Martins. She has become synonymous with highly crafted, diaphanous and dark designs in both her menswear and womenswear.
Glossy
On the street: 4 luxury shoppers on their ultimate in-store experience
by Jemma Brackebush
“Brands need fewer salespeople, and they need to scale them up to a level of expertise. Emotional intelligence skills are not being taught today in such a way that entire staff can exhibit those skills.”
Racked
Supreme's Secret Sauce Is Collective Grief
by Cam Wolf
More than 2,000 individuals are crying over hoodies on Reddit.
The New York Times
Afrofuturism: The Next Generation
by Ruth La Ferla
In 2016, an Afrocentric sci-fi vision infiltrated the mainstream, powering up for uncertain times.
clasp
Loose Threads
Loose Threads Podcast: The Fashion Industry Is Not Exactly Broken — with Marc Bain of Quartz
by Richie Siegel
Richie Siegel talks with Marc Bain, the fashion reporter at Quartz, about his path to covering the fashion industry. Topics include: how blockchain might impact the fashion industry; the current state of affairs in the fashion industry; how luxury brands will continue to scale globally; how luxury brands are approaching Amazon; and how malls are being revitalized.
The Washington Post
For the Obamas, looking cool is part of the job
by Robin Givhan
A look back at the gestures, the swagger, the clothing and the moments that defined the Obamas’ style.
1 Granary
Blitz Kids: Kim Bowen Uncensored
by Kriti Asthana
When squatters had the future of fashion in their hands.
ADDRESS
UNRAVELLING... Balenciaga menswear s/s 2017 Look 1
by Jacob Rosengren
Demna Gvasalia of Vetements fame debuted his menswear collections for Balanciaga this summer. Unfortunately, his take on the sculptural heritage of the house translated into a two-dimensional vision for the future. Jacob Rosengren gives his verdict of the collection by using look 1 as his case study.
W Magazine
Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen Introduce a Hand-Selected Curation of Vintage Jewelry for The Row
by Grace Fuller
The pieces, which will only be available at The Row stores in New York and Los Angeles, feels worn-in but both wearable with jeans and black-tie.
the culture crush
Opinion: Creatives Revolt
by Debra Scherer
Welcome to the world of entertainment technology.
Bloomberg
Asos Will Boost U.K. Production After Pound Falls
by Sam Chambers
Asos Plc, Britain’s largest online-only fashion retailer, plans to double its U.K. manufacturing as the pound’s post-Brexit plunge makes domestic production more affordable.
High Snobiety
Japanese Clothing Brands: 26 You Need to Know
by Gregk Foley
We've rounded up a comprehensive list of the 26 best Japanese brands you need to know, some of which are widely-known and others more obscure.
Fashionista
How Revolve is Leveraging User-Generated Content For Its Beauty Business
by Nicola Fumo
This is a company that knows how people shop today.
Fortune Magazine
Fifth Avenue Is Barely Clinging to Its Priciest-in-the-World Title
by Phil Wahba
Puttin' on the Ritz is no longer just a New York activity.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"Sun Loop"
Sega Bodega
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@JasonHirschhorn


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