Sustainable and/or ethical fashion is a balancing act between the ability to charge a price premium and the technical expertise to create product with better environmental or social performance, without adversely impacting the product’s margin.
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Store display, San Francisco, 2008. (Ludovic Bertron/Flickr)
Wednesday - November 23, 2016 Wed - 11/23/16
rantnrave:// One woman, thousands of designers. RUTH FINLEY organized the NEW YORK fashion calendar for 70 years, and she’s the subject of a documentary, out next year. The list of people she mentioned at this Nov. 21 panel, hosted by NYU COSTUME STUDIES, was a veritable run-down of NEW YORK CITY’s fashion legends. BLASS. DE LA RENTA. HALSTON. NORELL. There were other—perhaps less familiar—names floated as well, such as ORBACH’S, a department store known for its licensed designer copies. It makes me think about individuals (of any particular calling) who bring with them a kind of unimpeachable experience. What can we gain by simply listening to them, and what's lost if we don't? In this case it helps that Ruth is irresistibly charming… There’s definitely an urge to find meaning through handcraft (or the idea of it) these days, and here's one young designer who explores that sentiment through fashion… WWD presents to you (drumroll) an opposing view to nearly all articles on the subject thus far… As fashion's history stretches on, here's more evidence of our fascination with the archive, on the cover of the DEC/JAN print issue of HARPER'S BAZAR—spelling intentional. The magazine debuted under that name in 1867, named after a publication from BERLIN. You may notice something different about the cover. That's right, this 2016/2017 issue is set in a (originally hand-rendered?) typeface of yore, and it's attention-grabbing in just the right way. When you're conditioned to see a proprietary masthead over and over again, these kinds of changes produce a whiplash effect. And it's a good thing... The theme for PITTI UOMO this year is #dance, and the trade shows' organizers ask us to think about the intersections of fashion, rhythm, movement, and style. Yes, please... FashionREDEF will be on holiday the rest of the week for THANKSGIVING. Enjoy the weekend, and au revoir ’til MONDAY.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
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The Guardian
The hygge conspiracy
by Charlotte Higgins
This year’s most overhyped trend is a wholesome Danish concept of cosiness, used to sell everything from fluffy socks to vegan shepherd’s pie. But the version we’re buying is a British invention - and the real thing is less cuddly than it seems.
WWD
Maintaining His Memory: The Archive of Oscar de la Renta
by Elizabeth Doupnik
An impressive archive celebrates the dynamic work of the designer to serve the next generation charged with upholding his reputation.
NOAH NYC
Anatomy of a Jacket: Two-Tone Parka
by Brendon Babenzien
I've had several people asking about the price of some of our garments...In short: The things we make generally will last longer than other items that are designed to expire quite quickly.
Harper's Bazaar
150 Years of Harper's Bazaar
by Stephen Mooallem
As we kick off our celebration of Bazaar's 150th anniversary, we recall the magazine's beginnings and the drive to dare that was there from the start.
Glossy
Confessions of a fashion designer: US production is "not a serious option"
by Jemma Brackebush
In Glossy’s latest edition of "Confessions," where we grant anonymity for honesty, we speak to a senior designer at a contemporary fashion label that produces all of its products overseas.
The New York Times
Unsustainability Shutters Socially Responsible Luxury Brand Suno
by Valeriya Safronova
After eight years, the label is folding, amid talk that it was unable to attract investors.
Racked
This Blogger Knows What Taylor Swift Is Wearing Before Anyone Else
by Elana Fishman
And she’s gotten the stamp of approval from Swift herself.
ELLE
Why Getting Dressed Matters Now More Than Ever
by Leah Chernikoff
A candid conversation between designer Maria Cornejo and poet and activist Cleo Wade.
Quartz
A step-by-step guide to escaping a 'hijab grab'
by Ismat Sarah Mangla
Videos of self-defense techniques for Muslim women are going viral after the victory of president-elect Donald Trump.
The New York Times
What 10 Actors Wore to a Spike Lee Casting Call in Brooklyn
by Max Berlinger
The line of actors and performers at the Masonic Temple was so long that it wrapped around an entire block in Fort Greene. Despite the wait, the crowd was in good spirits and, naturally, smartly dressed.
quest
Racked
Can You Recreate the Estate Sale Treasure Hunt Online?
by Rachel Sugar
What’s gained and what’s lost when Everything but the House takes estate sales digital.
designboom
Hussein Chalayan At Design Week Turkey Interview
by Lea Zeitoun
On the occasion of design week turkey, designboom interviewed guest speaker and prominent fashion designer hussein chalayan.
The Fashion Law
The Promise of More Domestic Jobs Does Not Guarantee ‘Good’ Jobs
by Gabrielle Turnquest
American fashion manufacturing jobs are not immune to the horrors prevalent in overseas manufacturing.
National Post
Do you know where your clothes are made? When 'Made in' may not matter as much as 'Made by'
by Sabrina Maddeaux
The label may say “Made in Canada” or “Made in Bangladesh,” but those terms have never been murkier.
The New York Observer
Soon You Can Scan a Garment’s Label to Find Out How Sustainable It Is
by Sonja Hansen
The Povigy app aims to back up clothing brands’ claims of sustainability.
Glossy
Circular fashion, explained
by Bethany Biron
As fashion brands continue to identify ways to use recycled materials and curb emissions, the term “circular fashion” has been popping up more and more. So, what in the world is it?
Engadget
Instagram sees shopping as the next step in its evolution
by Edgar Alvarez
Like it or not, Instagram is growing beyond its social roots.
Teen Vogue
How to Build a Successful Fashion Brand, From 5 CFDA Incubator Designers
by Ariana Marsh
Read their advice on how to make it in the industry.
1 Granary
New Waves: Angela Chiang
by Matilda Söderberg
"Creativity and commerciality are not two contradicting angles, they support each other."
i-D Magazine
The 19-year-old Norwegian Designer Inspired By NYC Park Life
by Alice Newell-Hanson
Recently installed in New York, August Vestbø makes beautiful, emotionally rich clothes that reference everyone from Harry Potter and Carrie Bradshaw to Pina Bausch.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"Loner"
Mykki Blanco feat. Jean Deaux
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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