Without designers there are not going to be dreams, and without dreams there is no fashion, and without dreams, there are no perfumes. When we designers create, we must first start with a dream and intuition. Marketing comes later, not before – I repeat: marketing comes later, not before. Using intuition is risky... But some of the best innovation in the world happened because someone trusted their intuition and went for it.
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Sections. A Savile Row tailor cuts pieces of a suit. March 11, 1939.
(Kurt Hutton/Picture Post/Getty Images)
Thursday - November 16, 2017 Thu - 11/16/17
rantnrave:// It's been two years since ALBER ELBAZ parted ways with LANVIN. It's a shame that the story of Lanvin has become one of internal business struggles. Recent headlines had me thinking back to Elbaz’s time, not in a wistful way (well, maybe a little), but for how fashion should be thinking seriously about retaining talent in a crowded and competitive environment. How is it retaining and developing talent? How is it discovering it? For his part, Elbaz has stayed active in the public eye, speaking at events and conferences and lending a creative hand to collaborative projects with FRÉDÉRIC MALLE and CONVERSE. He shares positive thoughts, funny videos, and an appreciation for the history and culture of fashion on INSTAGRAM. That charm and dedication to fashion made his exit all the more bitter for fans and supporters. He's remained an outspoken advocate for the artistry that fashion brings into the world. But there are many times I wish Elbaz was out in the field: designing. Fashion could use his talent and experience right now. Known for marrying a technician's approach with the eye of a dreamer, he revitalized the house of Lanvin in the early 2000s and, at its height, showed that the creative and commercial could coexist. Last year, VANESSA FRIEDMAN wrote that many in the industry would like to see him start his own line. The industry continues to await his next move. FashionSET: CLOSE-UP: Alber Elbaz, Beyond the Lanvin Legacy... THEREALREAL CEO JULIE WAINWRIGHT and THOM BROWNE CEO RODRIGO BAZAN spoke about the need for flagship stores at the NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL LUXURY CONFERENCE. Store shopping has become a polarizing topic, but it's less a question of principle than execution. Lackluster service has been a glaring issue. Another is stores' inability to unify their online and brick-and-mortar inventories—to be able to locate things and swiftly deliver from anywhere in the inventory. Wainwright addressed the divide, saying TheRealReal is putting "no artificial boundaries" between their online and brick-and-mortar stores. If they haven't already, all brands need to be implementing this ASAP... Briefs: The trailer for "VERSACE: AMERICAN CRIME STORY" is out... SYSTEM MAGAZINE's latest biannual issue is available today, featuring VIRGIL ABLOH on four covers. IMHO System is publishing some of the best features in fashion right now... AMAZON is reportedly expanding fashion operations in AUSTRALIA.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
breeze
Collectors Weekly
True Kilts: Debunking the Myths About Highlanders and Clan Tartans
by Lisa Hix
Today, a man's pride in his Scottish heritage is often asserted by wearing a kilt made of his clan tartan-a fabric woven with the specific plaid pattern...
The New York Times
When Luxury Means Safe Work Conditions
by Vanessa Friedman
With new attention to fashion and modeling in the post-Harvey Weinstein age, how much responsibility do brands bear? What can they do to get in front of the current conversation and change the system in the future? At the New York Times's International Luxury Conference in Brussels, Sara Ziff, Founding Director, Model Alliance spoke with Vanessa Friedman, Fashion Director and Chief Fashion Critic, The New York Times.
GQ Style
Nepenthes, New York's Last Great Independent Boutique, Is a Hidden Gem of the Garment District
by Noah Johnson
Fans from around the world make the trek to this destination shop, but the future of the neighborhood is uncertain.
T Magazine
3 Designers Creating Clothes for Life — Not the Runway
by Amanda Fortini
Independent, understated, anonymous, even: A trio of sought-after labels specialize in the sort of thoughtful, well-made garments categorized as slow fashion.
Racked
How Charities Benefit From Extra Beauty Products
by Cheryl Wischhover
When editors pass, women who really need the products win.
The New York Times
From The Flagship to The Ghostship
by Hanya Yanagihara
Has the rise of e-commerce made the flagship more or less important? Rodrigo Bazan, C.E.O., Thom Browne, Inc. and Julie Wainwright, Founder and C.E.O., The RealReal, discuss the issue with Hanya Yanagihara, Editor in Chief, T Magazine at The New York Times's International Luxury Conference.
Vogue
Paolo Roversi Talks Rihanna, Rei Kawakubo, and His Favorite Models on the Eve of His Milan Exhibition 'Storie'
by Tiziana Cardini
Paolo Roversi is being celebrated at Milan’s Palazzo Reale with the exhibition Paolo Roversi “Storie,” opening to the public on November 16th.
Footwear News
Farfetch Revenue Grew 74% in 2016, But Losses Widened
by Samantha Conti
Farfetch, one of fashion tech's highest-profile companies, saw global revenue grow at breakneck speed in 2016, while losses widened, according to its latest filing at Companies House in London.
Hypebeast
The Untold Truth Behind Bootleg Merch
by Andrew Lindsay-Diaz
Before The Life of Pablo was The Grateful Dead.
The Guardian
The new American Apparel: claims of 'ethically made' abroad clash with reality
by Noor Ibrahim
The company was sold to Gildan and moved operations outside the US -- now the idea the brand was based upon clashes with what workers actually experience.
non-compete
Fast Company
Why Hasn’t Zara Paid Istanbul Workers In Over A Year? Angry Customers Want To Know
by Elizabeth Segran
By failing to respond swiftly to factory workers who haven’t been compensated, Zara is doing serious damage to its brand, one expert says.
Fashionista
The Success of Jen Atkin's Hair-Care Brand Ouai is a Testament to the Powers of Influencer Marketing and Sephora
by Stephanie Saltzman
A catch-up with the hairstylist and entrepreneur as the company approaches its two-year mark.
Garage Magazine
Is Lil Pump the Best Gucci Obsessive in the World?
by Rachel Tashjian
The Soundcloud rapper's infatuation with Gucci is the punkest thing happening in fashion right now.
Glossy
HLZBLZ's Lanie Alibanza: 'Streetwear today is about making as much money as possible'
by Jessica Schiffer
When Lanie Alibanza launched HLZBLZ in 2005, she didn't see herself as a pioneer. But as the creative force behind one of the first women's streetwear brands, Alibanza -- known by her peers as "misslawn" -- was helping to refashion what has historically been a male-dominated category.
Dazed Digital
The Instagram unearthing pics from your fave fashion mags
by Brooke McCord
Run by Rosanna Tich -- a Hackney-based woman working in public relations, marketing and communication with an encyclopedic knowledge of fashion -- @magazine_fan is a digital archive of the pages that make up the last 50 years of fashion publishing. 
National Football Museum
Bonnets and Bloomers: The Development of Women's Kit
by Kate Turner
This morning at the National Football Museum, we have been opening boxes and boxes of balls! It's pretty incredible to see how much footballs have changed over the years to get to the startlingly white, leather versions scattered with branding that we now see as the regular.
The Fashion Law
Banana Republic is Selling Sweaters with a Side of Chanel and Hermès
Banana Republic is quietly selling Chanel and Hermès bags. That is right. The Gap, Inc.-owned mall retailer currently boasts a lineup of bags, accessories, and some home goods (an Hermès clock, anyone?) from some of the market's most coveted luxury brands.
Bloomberg
How a Shirt Covered in Swastikas Ends Up in a Department Store
by Kim Bhasin and Polly Mosendz
Retail supply chains are so complex that sometimes a Nazi symbol can slip through the cracks.
The Straits Times
Singapore Fashion Week will shift focus to Asia next year
by May Seah
The curtain has fallen on Singapore Fashion Week (SGFW), with this year's edition -- which took place from Oct 26 to 28 -- being the last, at least as far as the current organisers are concerned.
It's Nice That
Introducing 'Broccoli,' the publication 'normalising cannabis use, especially for women'
by Bryony Stone
Whether used to ease the pain of medical problems or simply as a way to unwind after a stressful day, cannabis use across America is common, and becoming increasingly so.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Four for You"
Gaussian Curve
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@JasonHirschhorn


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