T-shirts are the great common denominator. Everyone wears them, all social classes, all over the world. I prefer my T-shirts a certain way, but I always enjoy seeing the way others wear their own T-shirts. I pay attention to the people that walk by me everywhere I go. | | | | Statuesque. Beverly Johnson with Saints Mark and Matthew, Brasilia, Brazil, Vogue 1973.
(Kourken Pakchanian/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | | | “T-shirts are the great common denominator. Everyone wears them, all social classes, all over the world. I prefer my T-shirts a certain way, but I always enjoy seeing the way others wear their own T-shirts. I pay attention to the people that walk by me everywhere I go.”
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| | rantnrave:// “In the beginning, we were just dudes in an office full of spiders trying to make silk.” So says BOLT THREADS CEO DAN WIDMAIER on the beginnings of a bioengineered thread utilized recently by STELLA MCCARTNEY. McCartney's label has long been one of the most progressive fashion labels when it comes to sustainability. And a cosign from a prestigious fashion label can help startups like Bolt gain traction. Will other premiere fashion labels use their businesses to drive sustainable innovation? If it fits the current paradigm of luxury, and the customer pays for it, the answer is yes. As a group, KERING has been making moves to secure longterm resources as they shrink or are threatened by near-term environmental issues. No world, no future business. McCartney says it's been a long road to having the rest of the industry see it this way. There's momentum... I love when stores offer a visceral experience and the chance to see something new. That's hard to come by when seemingly no piece of merch has gone uncatalogued by the internet, photographed six ways with 360-degree views and video, but every so often there's surprise. My fav store walk-ins from recent memory include the OFF-WHITE pop-up in NYC, which plays to the aural side of experience. On entry, one is greeted with towering foliage and the sound of chirping birds, like walking into another dimension off the grit-and-grime streets of SOHO. The other is EGG LONDON, where the shop's white-washed walls house a stunning variety of under-the-radar picks from Egg's own label, ALBUM DI FAMIGLIA, ARTS & SCIENCE, DOSA, and more. It's quality over quantity, with a fireplace upstairs and the windows thrown open to the street. Oh, and never underestimate the power of lighting. This video of KLAUS NOMI at FIORUCCI is one of the most memorable store videos I've seen, recording how retail can become a hub for community and culture—and of course, sales. It's easy to think of legendary shops—catering to all manner of punks, mods, and dandies—as a thing of the subcultural past, but seeing lineups around KITH MANHATTAN has me thinking differently. Many of fashion's legendary boutiques are long gone, but there's a new crop of stores looking to define their own legacies. FashionSET: Fashion's Most Celebrated Stores: Style and Merch. What did I miss? What are your favorites?... Briefs: more vintage MARGIELA in the latest archive sale from ARBITRAGE NYC and GRAILED... Great photos in SUSIE BUBBLE's coverage of #SARAHSLIST, a showcase of independent designers shepherded by SARAH MOWER at LIBERTY LONDON... HANESBRANDS acquires ALTERNATIVE APPAREL. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| The designer has always eschewed leather, fur, and feathers in her collections. Now she is going even further. Will luxury fashion follow? | | |
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| We talked to experts about the company's ambition to replace fast fashion in your wardrobe by letting you rent a constant stream of new clothes. | | |
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| How did we decide comfortable clothing was only for rich older women? | | |
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| The singer, actor and now ambassador for brands as varied as Burberry and McDonald’s has gone from K-Pop boy band member to bona fide superstar with unparalleled influence over China’s Millennial market. | | |
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| Jordan Adoni may not have set out to "save the world" with his shoes, but the transparency of his New York factory is attracting conscious consumers nonetheless. | | |
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| Christy Turlington Burns says “the industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experienced at some point in our careers.” | | |
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| An archeological discovery has raised questions about Muslims’ influence on Europe, feeding into a debate over white supremacy. | | |
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| The famous Vogue editor has pushed for more collaboration, but leaves the individual titles a fair amount of freedom. | | |
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| Jaime Hayon tells Surface about Jijibaba, a menswear line he co-founded with Jasper Morrison. | | |
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| The U.K. department store Liberty of London shines a spotlight on seven young designers championed by "Vogue’s" Sarah Mower. | | |
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| When it comes to Dapper Dan—the Harlem-born former shop owner who dressed the likes of LL Cool J, Mike Tyson, Salt-N-Pepa and many more—there’s a few fundamental problems in the way his legacy is discussed... generally it’s buttoned neatly under an abbreviated descriptor: king of knock-offs. The problem with that: the creations that Dan turned out of his East 125th street shop for just under a decade in the ‘80s and early ‘90s, were not recreations of anyone else’s ideas. | | |
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| The New York-based group is featured in Nike's campaign for its first women's-specific skate shoe. | | |
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| The widespread derision sparked by the multi-toed Vibram FiveFinger running shoes (not to mention the cloud of taboo surrounding foot fetishes at large) suggests that within Western culture, there is a strange and persistent shame of feet. Defying conventional taste, Martin Margiela sent split-toed boots down the paint-doused runway in his 1988 debut collection. | | |
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| It’s the moment when a purchase turns painful, and it varies more widely than you might expect. | | |
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| A lavish new book examines the history of Ardrossan and the old-money world of Philadelphia’s Main Line. | | |
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| Chinese luxury consumers are in a good position to embrace the idea of sustainability if brands can move smartly to deal with their misconceptions. | | |
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| Barneys New York is finally mining its data to better assess consumer needs and put them front-and-center. | | |
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| Not only do fast fashion retailers have a serious track record of copying, they have recently taken to fighting back when they are called out for it. Forever 21 recently filed suits against adidas and Gucci, and now H&M has slapped Wildfox Couture with a new lawsuit, claiming that it is notrunning afoul of federal trademark law for marketing and selling a sweatshirt bearing the words “Toronto Wildfox.” | | |
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| Chaumet is protective about its archive – and so it should be. | | |
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| The idea of the traditional fashion showroom is changing. Moving beyond an industry-only space, showrooms are opening up as retail stores for consumers. | | |
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