Dior does not make the mistake of believing in his own publicity, though when he arrived in New York he received as much newspaper space as Winston Churchill. | | | | Diamond and aquamarine. Jewelry by Tiffany & Company, Vogue 1936.
(Horst P. Horst/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | | | “Dior does not make the mistake of believing in his own publicity, though when he arrived in New York he received as much newspaper space as Winston Churchill.”
| - | Cecil Beaton, The Glass of Fashion, 1954 |
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| | rantnrave:// What's up at IVANKA INC.? A lot, it turns out, including a global system of supply and manufacturing (around 500 pounds of blouses, anyone?), marketing mystique, and lots of people who make clothing and accessories under the name IVANKA TRUMP. This piece goes deep with some fantastic interactive features, like a graphic that visualizes international container routes and a video interview with a woman who works in a garment factory in INDONESIA. Of course, the Ivanka Trump brand represents one in a whole suite of companies licensed with a company like G-III. And G-III is just one of many such apparel distributors that regularly use (proportionally) low cost labor from countries that, well, serve it up. Does this change culpability for any one company? No. Are there a lot of other brands out there that use the same practices? Yes. Is any of this hurting perception of the Ivanka Trump brand among consumers? Yes and no—not among these fans. As far as fashion and apparel industries are concerned, the outside context here should be compelling. As the WaPo feature notes, there's a broader trend among companies to be savvier in sourcing labor and materials. How much of this is lip service? People have to dig deeper to find that out, but one should never underestimate the motivations—fans often have an uncanny ability to work faster than social and regulatory organizations. The complex, global interactions that bring goods to market are of increasing interest to people. And while the face of your brand may have varying levels of willful obliviousness to political sentiment, customers know how to compare a company's marketing to its operations. They make their own call. Are the broader risks worth it? Will people pay higher prices to ensure social responsibility?... Looking forward to seeing the DRIES documentary. It screens in LONDON today, with future dates planned. Really enjoyed this interview with director REINER HOLZEMER, who spent a year with the designer working on the film... Briefs: Female designers of NYFW:M... Some hilarious hot takes from "non-fashion dudes"... Here at REDEF, we love debate. BOF put together four perspectives on fashion and cultural appropriation... An update on the SUPREME x LOUIS VUITTON pop-ups, those that were, and those that weren't: scenes from LONDON, HOUSTON, SINGAPORE, and the Supreme REDDIT. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Ivanka Inc. | | by Matea Gold, Drew Harwell, Maher Sattar... |
| The first daughter talks about improving the lives of working women. Her father urges companies to “buy American.” But her fashion line’s practices collide with those principles – and are out of step with industry trends. | | |
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| Carhartt navigates the murky waters. | | |
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| Nadja Spiegelman on the legacy that Paris's high-fashion temple will leave behind when it closes in December. | | |
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| In-store shopping isn't dead for Gen Z. | | |
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| For an entire year, German filmmaker Reiner Holzemer documented the precise steps that Van Noten takes to conceive four collections – the rich fabrics, embroidery and prints exclusive to his designs. | | |
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| We spoke to Virgil Abloh about the fashion program he co-created with Don C, RSVP Gallery, and Chicago CRED to help at-risk youth. | | |
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| Fashion power players share their memories of Colette, the Paris store that is closing after 20 years. | | |
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| The organization's President and CEO Steven Kolb tells Fashionista that NYFW still features plenty of strong talent, even despite the recent Parisian exodus. | | |
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| At Tuesday's Raf Simons show, New York showed why it's besotted with the designer tasked with saving American sportswear. | | |
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| You start by trademarking a white box. | | |
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| Navigating Depop and Poshmark turned out to be way more trouble than they were worth. | | |
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| Stung by hate mail after his last New York show, the designer presents his new collection at a leather bar in Chelsea. | | |
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| The exhibit traces the designer’s links with ancient Greek culture and iconography 20 years after his murder. | | |
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| The slew of events thrown by brands each season can cost them big money and ample resources, with very little reward, say many in the industry. Whether it's during NYFW: Men's, going on now, or couture week, which wrapped earlier this month, the list of companies clamoring for their fashion week 15 minutes only seems to be growing. | | |
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| One non-binary writer explains why, for starters, it has nothing to do with shopping each other's closets. | | |
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| Ahead of the release of its sophomore edition, we open the pages of 'Niijournal.' | | |
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| Customers are complaining about missing orders and delayed refunds after ordering from Combatant Gentlemen. | | |
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| The average 1930s American woman bought up to 15 pairs of silk stockings a year-until, that is, women boycotted the fabric behind an essential garment. | | |
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| Today’s retail industry disruptions have roots in Seventies consumer trends. | | |
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| A cornerstone of the ’90s Riot Grrrl movement, staples and Sharpies are making a comeback. | | |
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