We must get back to the fundamentals. There’s a story to tell at Lanvin. In all modesty, I’d like to say that I’m going to do Jeanne by the book. | | | | Giambattista Valli haute couture A/W 2017-2018, Paris, July 3, 2017.
(Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images) | | | | | | “We must get back to the fundamentals. There’s a story to tell at Lanvin. In all modesty, I’d like to say that I’m going to do Jeanne by the book.”
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| | rantnrave:// New hires, old houses. The first glimpse of CLAIRE WAIGHT KELLER's GIVENCHY is out in the form of an ad shot by STEVEN MEISEL, and the industry is thirsty for it. Coverage of ad campaigns typically falls under the #contentmill banner, to which I typically respond, yeah, I can look at an ad when it's advertising to me—does it need to be pre-posted and re-posted like a hall of mirrors beforehand? The Givenchy ad is notable, however—it can be viewed as a harbinger of what's to come at the storied house, founded in 1952 by HUBERT DE GIVENCHY. VANESSA FRIEDMAN wrote some intriguing analysis of what could be in store for the house's next wave. Love that Friedman draws connections to what's come before, particularly Waight Keller's work for TOM FORD's GUCCI in the early 2000s... LANVIN wasted no time finding a replacement for BOUCHRA JARRAR, as reports announce the arrival of OLIVIER LAPIDUS as the label's new artistic director. Lapidus gave comments to VOGUE, saying "I'll be spending my vacation at Lanvin!" He says he'll be focusing on the house's DNA. You can brush up on that in this book on Lanvin by the late DEAN MERCERON. There are museum collections and exhibitions to look to as well. In the meantime, it's fun to think about what doing "Jeanne [Lanvin] by the book" might entail. A focus on embroidery? Robe de style? BOF reports that the label may aim to be a French version of Michael Kors, which ultimately could mean going full-on "lifestyle brand." Moving into a lifestyle brand is an intelligent, well-meaning business move, but it can easily steer into the bland or overtly commercial. The Michael Kors brand has been the subject of such critique recently, as it expanded (some say too far, too fast) after IPO... Startup style at LVMH... I have my reservations about the ability of body scanners to produce the results of skilled patternmakers, but here's one way they're being used... Team Vogue was on the ground at PARIS haute couture, and I think the editors make some valid points about the week. Check it out... Digitized RAF from the turn of the twentieth century? Yes please. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Which is, it turns out, a harbinger of things to come. When Ms. Waight Keller's full collection debuts on Oct. 1 during Paris Fashion Week, it will include both men's and women's wear, making Givenchy the first brand owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton to join the trend of combining men's and women's shows, as embraced by Gucci and by Burberry, among others. | | |
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| Drabulous or fabulous? "Vogue" editors discuss Chanel, Dior, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Moda, and more. | | |
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| As the retail landscape continues to shift, Urban Outfitters is fighting to stay on top. | | |
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| Lapidus joined Lanvin as artistic director on Monday, replacing Bouchra Jarrar, who exited the company last week. | | |
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| While Yohei Fukuda was learning the art of shoemaking in London in the early 2000s he applied to work at John Lobb, one of the oldest and most prestigious. | | |
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| Ian Rogers turned heads in 2015 when he jumped ship from leading iTunes at Apple to join LVMH as its first chief digital officer. LVMH recently rolled out a multi-brand e-commerce site called 24 Sèvres, inspired by the company’s upmarket department store, Le Bon Marché. We caught up with Rogers on the endeavor and the future of fashion brands. | | |
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| The six-month program will be devoted to innovation and sustainability. | | |
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| Fashion week, at the risk of explaining what you already know, is when our buyers fly to Paris, Milan, London and New York for the purpose of previewing collections and placing orders. After careful consideration during runway shows and in private showrooms, they make decisions about what you'll see eight months later as our designer selection. | | |
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| For each month until the end of the year, Sarah Andelman is giving a whole floor of Colette to a single brand. We’ll see Balenciaga, Sacai, Thom Browne -- and one surprise: fashion publicist Lucien Pagès. | | |
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| The Council of Fashion Designers of America may be busy promoting New York Fashion Week: Men’s, which begins on Monday, but elsewhere in the world, the idea of a men’s-specific week seems to be nearing extinction. | | |
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| The Fashion Studies Journal |
| "As a fashion and textile historian who works closely with the Fashion Calendar archive, I am exceedingly privileged to not only have access to a previously un-investigated source that is so rich with information, but to be able to interact with the maker of the archive herself." | | |
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| A Google Engineer Learns the Fashion Code | | |
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| As a queer female lawyer, I have to perform gendered professionalism all day, every day. | | |
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| On a tiny farm in Washington State, one woman’s floral workshops have become something of a sensation. | | |
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| New entrants are chipping away at both traditional retailers and fast fashion behemoths by catering to aesthetic niches, offering customisation and building communities. | | |
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| Fashion is stuck between a rock and a hard place when it comes to working with Amazon. Brands have the option of either selling to Amazon directly, via its wholesale model, or joining the company’s third-party marketplace as a seller. But brands and industry execs say Amazon’s rigged the game so that it’s not much of an option at all. | | |
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| International Politics and Society |
| After the collapse of Rana Plaza in Dkaha, people worldwide demanded better working conditions for textile workers and transparant supply chains. | | |
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| WGSN's Brian Trunzo catches up with Raf Simons collector David Casavant to talk about vintage fashion, youth culture today and what's next for menswear | | |
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| We asked experts who produce inside and outside the U.S. for their thoughts. | | |
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| 70 years after his debut, an exhibition argues the designer’s “New Look” ushered in a new France. | | |
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| © Copyright 2017, The REDEF Group |
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