Discipline is the refining fire by which talent becomes ability.
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Summer fashions and telephony. Vogue 1974.
(Oliviero Toscani/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Friday - June 30, 2017 Fri - 06/30/17
rantnrave:// OKJA is a joy to watch. I keep thinking back to the film's realization of characters through clothes. BONG JOON-HO's films are always visually rich, with a sense of rhythm, mischievous humor, and ultimately, empathy for heroes/antiheroes put into situations outside their control—but only in the beginning. In Okja, wardrobe is no exception to the tale. TILDA SWINTON's portrayal of twin sisters from the fictional MIRANDO corporation is an example of how fashion can take on a mystical dimension. CHANEL and BURBERRY communicate two points of difference—embodying both stereotypical versions of corporate dressing and individual histories at the same time. Don't miss it. And if you haven't experienced other works by director Bong, check out MEMORIES OF MURDER and SNOWPIERCER... Dressing can be a force for empowerment, and two pieces today show how clothing can profoundly affect people's sense of self-identification and dignity. CONNIE WANG spent time in MICHIGAN with a woman who recently emigrated to the USA and discovers how window shopping offers escapism and empowerment. This piece from KATIE BAIN draws on the experiences of women who are given a sense of renewal through second-hand clothing boutiques in LA. And shoutout to VANESSA HSIEH for this essay on KENZO's all-Asian model cast... In brief: Fashion notification alert (!) (!!)... OLIVIER SAILLARD is moving on from his role as director of the PALAIS GALLIERA to become artistic director of J.M. WESTON... KERING investment arm ARTÉMIS takes a minority stake in GIAMBATTISTA VALLI... Call this release the rollback edition... BANGLADESH accords renewed... FashionREDEF is taking a break for USA INDEPENDENCE DAY. Will return July 5. Enjoy.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
net effect
Refinery29
For This New Immigrant, Window Shopping Is Like Therapy
by Connie Wang
Patricia fled her home country in Africa to Freedom House Detroit. In the process of seeking asylum, she's found that clothes have been a form of therapy.
Garage Magazine
Undressing the Dress Code
by Alice Hines
Why and when does the much-maligned “dress code” hold out?
Racked
The Second Life of Clothing You Donate
by Katie Bain
Receiving a new shirt or clean pants can be transformational.
WWD
Kenzo Takada Talks Fashion, Film and New Collaborations
by Rosemary Feitelberg
Looking back at his career is not something that he considered until recently and deciding not to become an accountant turned out to be a wise move.
Dazed Digital
Kenzo’s all-Asian show made me feel I had a place in fashion
by Vanessa Hsieh
In an industry that so often gets diversity wrong, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s authentic tribute to the brand’s heritage is a shining example of how to do it right.
The New York Times
Your Literary Idols and Their Wardrobes
by Vanessa Friedman
Think that it doesn’t matter what a writer wears? A new book says otherwise.
The New Yorker
Ben Cho, a New York Icon Who Gave Me a Sense of What’s Possible
by Hua Hsu
Ben Cho was a whimsical, avant-garde fashion designer. He was also Homecoming King.
British Vogue
How Couture Fashion Week Is Changing
by Alice Cavanagh
As Paris prepares for Haute Couture, we ask: what would a ready-to-wear invasion mean for the exclusive event?
RISD
Virgil Abloh 'Theoretically Speaking'
by Virgil Abloh
A conversation with Virgil Abloh and RISD President Rosanne Somerson on contemporary design theory and its relation to current culture across mediums.
The Fashion Law
Runway Show Reviews: What's the Point Anymore?
Fashion is vastly changing in furtherance of becoming increasingly direct, quicker, far less grounded in tradition. Social media and livestream functionalities make runway shows available in real time to those that are not in attendance.
cumulus
Reuters
A hashtag on Wednesdays is fighting Iran's dress code for women
by Heba Kanso
Before she begins her Wednesday morning, Iranian activist Masih Alinejad spends hours sifting through scores of videos and photos sent to her of women in Iran wearing white headscarves or white clothing as part of a growing online protest.
Hong Kong Tatler
Iris Apfel: The Story Behind The Style Icon
by Chloe Street
The story of Iris Apfel is as kaleidoscopic as her famous wardrobe.
Fashionista
Kenzo Takada on His Very Creative Life Before, During and After Founding Kenzo
by Whitney Bauck
The designer opens up about inventing the mass-market designer collaboration model, and what he misses about fashion.
Town & Country
Meet Temple St. Clair, Florence's Last Society Jeweler
by Kristen Bateman
The Virginia native inspired Barneys to open a jewelry department.
Glossy
Inclusive modeling agency Zand Wagon is on a mission to subvert beauty standards
by Bethany Biron
Patrick McDonald, self-proclaimed "dandy of New York" and a favorite subject of the late famed fashion photographer Bill Cunningham, thought his days of catwalks and posing for Halston campaigns were long behind him. Though he left the modeling world in the late '70s, at "61 years young," McDonald has remained a prominent figure in the New York style scene.
Wallpaper* Magazine
Material world: Peter Marino reflects on bronze, mythology and timeless design
by Elly Parsons
Peter Marino is continually driven to make new and long-lasting marks on the creative world. Starchitect, artist, fashion house favourite, leather-clad luminary and landscape gardener; a few of the many titles Marino has collected over an ongoing 45 year career.
The Business of Fashion
A Bad Brexit Would Pull the Fashion Industry Apart at the Seams
by Tamara Cincik
As the UK negotiates its exit from the EU, it must remain in the customs union and introduce new trademark protections, talent visas and tax breaks, or risk disaster, argues Tamara Cincik.
L2 Inc
Your Favorite Brand? Whatever Google or Amazon Says
by Scott Galloway and Elisabeth Rosen
The percentage of consumers who can name a favorite brand is declining.
Harvard Business Review
When a Retail Store Closes, Crime Increases Around It
by Tom Y. Chang and Mireille Jacobson
A study of Los Angeles restaurants and marijuana dispensaries.
Bloomberg
H&M Shows Cost Discipline as Retailer Adapts to Digital Era
by Janice Kew and Paul Jarvis
Cost-control is the new watchword at Hennes & Mauritz AB as the European fashion giant seeks to compensate for slowing sales growth, rising inventories and dwindling profitability.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Sargasso Sea"
Taeko Ohnuki
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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