With Supreme, there were no grand plans—with the name, with the store, with anything. It all just evolved. These days, it’s a lot more difficult to do that. You’ve got to come out with all guns blazing right away or you don’t stand a chance. Whereas when we first started, there weren’t blogs ready to shoot us down the day we opened. We were given time to make mistakes and grow.
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Lagerfeld looks out. Interview in window display at Bon Marché. Dec. 15, 2010
(Fred Dufour/AFP/Getty Images)
Wednesday - April 26, 2017 Wed - 04/26/17
rantnrave:// LVMH has fully acquired DIOR. The ARNAULT family holding company bought out minority shareholders of Dior and is then selling those to LVMH. It's also letting go of its stake in HERMÈS. Seems like a wise move, given Arnault's comments to the FT (paywalled): "the best assets are not for sale"... Sustainability's "cliché eco-looks" have dogged designers for a while, but the tide seems to be turning. Especially when, per this interview with BRUNO PIETERS, students working on sustainable collections say, "we don't want it to *look* sustainable." DHANI MAU took the REFORMATION factory tour for FASHIONISTA, and it's great. Per Reformation founder YAEL AFLALO, "factories are cool." Take note, rest of industry. Both Pieters and Aflalo mention that third party certifications are integral to their operations. Now that factories are part of PR, we need a fashion wonk to introduce shoppers to their certifications... TOMMY TON went on the BLAMO! podcast to talk about the early days of street style and that legendary photo of KANYE and crew. Ton mentioned he's working on his first book, although he couldn't reveal details... In other industry announcements: PROENZA SCHOULER and RODARTE are now official guest members on the PARIS couture schedule... J CREW is laying off 250 employees, including head of menswear FRANK MUYTJENS. The restructuring is no surprise, but what is the company going to do besides shrink?... The masks we wear, and those mapped to our faces, in real time... Meet @fysikern, who owns what is likely the largest collection of STAN SMITHs in the world... Have we entered the period of buyers-as-viral-marketers? PRPS is an NYC-based label that uses a lot of selvedge denim from JAPAN and seems to design in the Eastern-romanticized-Americana-workwear aesthetic. These jeans were trending yesterday, giving a whole new meaning to mud-slinging. On the barometer of class tension, Puritanically rooted values of cleanliness and order, and anger over the artifice of distressed clothing, this pair tapped 'em all and went too far. People missed the matching jacket... Not one to let trending headlines past its creative agency, IKEA issued a mock response to the BALENCIAGA parody bag. Keep this game of parody, counter parody going and we'll end up with the IKEA modular haute couture capsule collection. So cheap it's expensive.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
crew
The New York Times
LVMH to Take Control of Christian Dior in $13.1 Billion Deal
by Elizabeth Paton
The LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton luxury empire and the French billionaire Bernard Arnault announced on Tuesday a series of moves to take over Christian Dior in a $13.1 billion deal to consolidate control over the 70-year-old Parisian fashion house.
Racked
The Political Impossibility of What to Wear With Your Flak Jacket
by David Rudin
Jared Kushner is only the latest politico to look like a doof.
1 Granary
Bruno Pieters, reinventing the system through honesty
by Aya Noël
"We are failing you and not showing you the right way. You are not being surrounded by positive role models, so hats off to anybody who wants to do this."
Fashionista
A Look Inside Reformation's Bright, Shiny, Sustainable Los Angeles Factory
by Dhani Mau
Founder Yael Aflalo took us on a tour of the space (now open to the public), sharing all of its unique, sustainability-focused details.
Vulture
Glenn O'Brien and the Avant-Garde That Lost
by Patrick McMullan
Three Sundays ago, I went to the beautiful memorial for the great writer-impresario-thinker Glenn O’Brien, and a melancholy thought took hold of me.
Complex
How Samuel Ross Went From Making Knock-Off Nikes to Being One of London’s Most In-Demand Designers
by Steve Dool
The A-Cold-Wall founder talks Virgil Abloh, collaborating with Nike, and what's next for his burgeoning brand.
British Vogue
Gabriela Hearst: From Cattle to Catwalk
by Suzy Menkes
The designer has woven memories of her Uruguayan gaucho childhood into elegant, eloquent New York woollens.
The Guardian
30 years of gay style: from disco chic to hipster bears
by Paul Flynn
It used to be a tribal signal but as gay style has moved into the mainstream, the look has become harder to pin down. It’s forcing creatives to really push the boundaries if they want to make a statement.
WWD
Keeping Score: Brands Tally Bloggers’ Bots
by Rachel Strugatz
Influencer followings could contain as much as 20 percent fake followers.
Blamo!
Blamo! Podcast: Tommy Ton
by Jeremy Kirkland and Tommy Ton
My guest this week is photographer and visual journalist, Tommy Ton. Tommy and I spoke about photography, street style, his rise from design assistant to shooting campaigns for Louis Vuitton -- and singing karaoke with Kanye West.
tally
The Washington Post
Workers endured long hours, low pay at Chinese factory used by Ivanka Trump’s clothing-maker
by Drew Harwell
Knitting workers were forced to labor 57 hours a week for near-minimum-wage pay.
The Business of Fashion
Shanghai’s Bid to Conquer Asian Fashion
by Robb Young
Dynamic, ambitious and sometimes chaotic, Shanghai Fashion Week is becoming a global centre of gravity for Asia’s sprawling fashion trade.
Science News
Oldest evidence of patterned silk loom found in China
by Bruce Bower
Chinese finds offer earliest look at game-changing weaving machine.
Racked
When Buying Makeup Stops Being Fun and Becomes an Addiction
by Gray Chapman
You might know r/MakeupAddiction, but do you know r/MakeupRehab?
High Snobiety
adidas Stan Smith: The Collector With More Than Stan Smith
by Chris Danforth
Meet Tommy, aka @fysikern, the Swedish adidas Stan Smith fan with over 200 pairs in his collection, probably more than Stan Smith himself.
WWD
Gucci Propels 31.2% Rise in Kering Q1 Revenues
by Joelle Diderich
Organic sales at Gucci rose 48.3 percent, their strongest increase in two decades, as luxury clients clamored for Alessandro Michel's distinctive designs.
Vogue
A Conservator's View of 'Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between'
by Laird Borrelli-Persson
The Costume Institute’s head conservator, Sarah Scaturro, talks about preparing for the upcoming Comme des Garçons show.
The Fashion Law
Fraud Stylist Back in Action After Making Headlines for Stealing Designer Garments
After making headlines in November for defrauding a handful of celebrated fashion brands and publications and stealing hundreds of thousands of dollars’ worth of designer garments and accessories, Arnaud Henry Mensan is plaguing the fashion industry again.
Bloomberg
Brooklyn as a Fashion Hub? Mayor’s Plan Stirs Manhattan Backlash
by Henry Goldman
Brooklyn may be New York’s hippest borough to live or start a business. It just doesn’t hold that much cachet for the city’s fashion industry.
Vanity Fair
'Romy and Michele' at 20: Why the 90s Icons Would Hate Modern Fashion
by Yohana Desta
Costume designer Mona May, who also designed "Clueless," looks back on the unforgettable style of "Romy and Michele’s High School Reunion."
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"Don't Stop the Music"
Yarbrough & Peoples
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