It’s not that activists have been ignoring fashion; it’s just that they’ve been pressuring brands on other more visible issues, such as chemicals and dyes that turn rivers in China the trendy color of the season. | | Jil Sander in front of her shop in Hamburg, 1968. (Ullstein Bild/Getty Images) | | | | “It’s not that activists have been ignoring fashion; it’s just that they’ve been pressuring brands on other more visible issues, such as chemicals and dyes that turn rivers in China the trendy color of the season.” |
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| rantnrave:// RODOLFO PAGLIALUNGA has officially exited JIL SANDER. Enough churn in creative directors lately. We need a real-time infographic to keep up. Is the financial pressure too much to claw back from? Too much short-term thinking? Bad hiring? What about embracing the revolving door? ANDREW ROSEN's recent experiment with HELMUT LANG is putting in place project-based or seasonal collaborators instead of "permanent" hires. Gig economy goes everywhere. TIGRAN AVETISYAN's womenswear is designed by his friend PAVEL AN, and An's not positioned as creative director. He just designs it... Always appreciate GARY WASSNER's take... Merchant moves. Here we go: more speculation and analysis on a potential NEIMAN MARCUS sale to HUDSON'S BAY. Would that acquisition really mean a SAKS-NM merger? One department store to rule them all, or eliminate junk bond debt... Loved this piece on U.A.L, luxury liquidators... According to sources, MODCLOTH will be bought by JET.COM (by proxy, WALMART), and there are some unhappy customers already trading alternatives in the JEZEBEL comments section... ZARA reported some stellar sales. Here's shareholders' and ORTEGA's INDITEX payout. BLOOMBERG reminds us not to forget about gross margins, apparently squeezed at Zara due to currency movements... Don't miss this fantastic read in RACKED on the lack of objective measure for how fashion is destroying the environment. We just know it's bad... How are brands doing on INSTAGRAM? ALYSSA VINGAN KLEIN looked at some recent strategies. If you're looking for influencers on the rise, take a look at THE GRAMLIST. Micro-influencers are making an impact. | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| It's definitely bad, but just how bad? No one knows. | |
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The off-price retailer U.A.L. is largely unknown outside the South, yet it is a regular pilgrimage site for fashion insiders looking for high-end designer wear at dizzying markdowns. | |
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During the 1930s, the world’s most fashionable looks came not from Paris, but from La-La Land. | |
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Simon Porte JacquemusAt 19, when most of his peers were still deciding on a college major, Provence-born Simon Porte Jacquemus was already staging guerrilla-style fashion shows around Paris and knocking on retailers' doors. Two years after Jacquemus showed his first collection in 2009, Rei Kawakubo spotted his clothes at a Tokyo showroom, and fashion history was made. | |
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Mayhoola for Investments is a group backed by Sheikh Tamim, al-Missned, the monarch and head of state of Qatar. While the Qatari company, which is focused on “local and global investments,” may be an unknown name to many, it is, according to Luca Solca, head of luxury goods at analyst firm Exane BNP Paribas, “becoming a force to be reckoned with.” | |
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A League Of His Own: His aloof demeanor may not be that of a man locked in the groove, but Charlie Davidson has spent seven decades making Ivy Leaguers and his very own jazz heroes “hip to my kinda clothes.” | |
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Jamie Morgan and Ib Kamara pay homage to Barry Kamen in a shoot featuring Paris’s African club kids - here they discuss this story, Barry’s legacy and Buffalo’s future. | |
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Vanessa Friedman’s week at the Paris fashion shows. | |
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Rebecca Taylor likes to compare fashion with Netflix. The veteran fashion designer, who started her own line in the ’90s and has since made a name for herself with her own brand of feminine, modern aesthetics, thinks that the very way fashion works has changed, and it bears more resemblance to how people watch TV than anything else. | |
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"I think it's important for us to realize it is no longer okay to just treat fashion as, 'oh it's an escape!'" | |
| A fashion superstar's margins are squeezed. | |
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Amancio Ortega, Europe’s wealthiest person, has earned more than £5bn since 2010 and has a net worth of £58bn. | |
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An in-person event fostered relationships among 50 of the beauty brand's best social media fans while supporting its goals around reach, authenticity and branding. | |
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Beauty brands are targeting the emerging opportunity in 'active cosmetics,' which promise to keep consumers looking good while they workout. | |
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"Be stupid, be naïve, be fearless, brainless." | |
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"PETA plans to be first in line," the group said of the much-anticipated IPO. | |
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Hoodies are the worst, so why can’t I let this one go? | |
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Comfortable and supportive, Dansko clogs are -- for some -- a way of life. | |
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"The Hollywood Reporter"'s most powerful stylist of 2017 tells us how she got there. | |
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"I was reminded, as I watched a live stream of Tag Heuer’s shouty boss build hype for his company’s second Android Wear watch, just how difficult it is to make a good smartwatch. As users, we expect all the thinness, lightness, and versatility that we’re used to from smartphones, but married to the always-on time display and two-day battery life of a mechanical watch." | |
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