Since the end of the 1990s up until quite recently, I think fashion became much too product-oriented, and creativity completely died. I think the first people to sense that were the consumers themselves; they clearly understood that it had all just become a trick to sell things. | | | | Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2000.
(Thierry Orban/Sygma/Getty Images) | | | | | | “Since the end of the 1990s up until quite recently, I think fashion became much too product-oriented, and creativity completely died. I think the first people to sense that were the consumers themselves; they clearly understood that it had all just become a trick to sell things.”
| - | Alessandro Michele, 2016 |
|
| |
| | rantnrave:// This 2016 feature from SYSTEM MAGAZINE is a fantastic read for its myriad views inside the house of GUCCI. The piece alternates between ALESSANDRO MICHELE and CEO MARCO BIZZARRI. There's a balance struck here between the art and commerce sides of the house, and the format of the interview speaks to how Gucci is getting the balance right internally... Don't miss this interview with ADRIAN JOFFE, another CEO who gets it... This piece in THE GLASS MAGAZINE offers nuanced views from fashion photographers SHEILA METZER, ELAINE CONSTANTINE, CATHLEEN NAUNDORF, and more about everything from the representation of women in fashion to the identity politics of being a female fashion photographer… THAKOON has been put on hold, after spending a little over one year under BRIGHT FAME FASHION, an investment vehicle run by VIVIAN CHOU. Thakoon is a talented designer. The label's attempt to invent its own timetable of deliveries and e-commerce was admirable, but it seems that was one step ahead for the business, whose primary challenge was connecting the subtleties of Thakoon's design sensibility to customers in a landscape dominated by loud, media-driven branding. Stay tuned... Exciting possibilities for SHAYNE OLIVER at HELMUT LANG. HOOD BY AIR has drawn from the aesthetic shaped by designers like Lang in the 1990s, so this could be genius or just a safe bet for Helmut Lang. I'm rooting for the collaboration, particularly because Helmut Lang began looking way too merchandised in recent years... Because you need more acronyms in your life, the CFDA and NYCEDC are partnering on a graduate fashion design showcase May 23–25. Ten students will be selected from five schools: FIT, Parsons, Pratt, RISD, and Academy of Art University. It’s great to see this as a cooperative effort, since the graduate design shows in NYC are often staged quietly in disparate locations, with sporadic coverage. Would love to see some NYC student design publications come out of this... Shoutout to LEAN LUXE for giving us some context on which VC firms stand to compete with NATALIE MASSENET and NICK BROWN's IMAGINARY VENTURES. And here's some thoughtful commentary on greenwashing... WIKIPEDIA FASHION 2000s. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
|
|
| The strange paradox of fashion is that in an industry built almost entirely around creating images of and for women, only a small fraction of those images are actually created by women. This is something of a contradiction in terms and poses some rather difficult questions, such as, why are there so few female fashion photographers? Is there discrimination within the industry? And should we be concerned that the vision of ‘perfect’ women that fashion images portray is not realistic? | | |
|
| How Alessandro Michele and Marco Bizzarri are making Gucci the feel-good fashion brand. | | |
|
| With their store and their chummy collaborations, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim became New York’s resident curators of hip. Who cares that they don’t sew? | | |
|
| The designer is working on a special project led by Helmut Lang's new 'editor-in-residence' Isabella Burley. Rumours of Hood by Air’s demise are unfounded, according to a representative of the label. | | |
|
| We talk to the president/CEO of Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market about trusting your gut, social media-as-therapy and the staying power of our new president. | | |
|
| The CSM MA Fashion graduate on the relationship between woman and drapery. | | |
|
| In Italy, designers like Max Mara, Pucci, and Ferragamo maintain their own archives, used for both preservation and inspiration. | | |
|
| President Trump preaches 'Buy American and Hire American' often, but there's one big problem: Consumers care about low prices a lot more than where something is made. | | |
|
| Start Today, which owns the popular fashion marketplace Zozotown, just made its first foray into the US market. Will this unorthodox company manage to connect with consumers outside of Japan? | | |
|
| What makes otherwise mild-mannered shoppers shove each other in the quest for discount goods? | | |
|
| Ukraine’s brightest young talent Anton Belinskiy brought together the cream of Kiev fashion together to highlight the country’s ongoing creative eruption. | | |
|
| Indian designers have largely catered to domestic buyers until now, but couture show this week aims to change that and draw not only Hong Kong’s Indian community but Chinese and expat fashion fans. | | |
|
| The former couturier has designed the Paris Opera Ballet’s new production of a Balanchine classic. | | |
|
| Regional fashion shows have percolated across the nation. Though they're small in stature, and by and large feature little-known names, these shows are becoming the accelerators to New York, as well as London, Milan and Paris. | | |
|
| Looking back at the way Hitler's nationalistic policies decimated fashion in Nazi-era Germany, you see what could be in store for the US's garment industry if Trump can put "America First." | | |
|
| Last week, Natalie Massenet’s long awaited (and long rumored) VC fund was all but officially confirmed. Here's what you need to know. | | |
|
| Luxury brands are leveraging Chinese celebrities and digital influencers to target millennial consumers | | |
|
| Plus LA menswear guru Josh Peskowitz talks to Hermès menswear designer, Véronique Nichanian. | | |
|
| The designer’s new store in SoHo turns out to be an unexpected place to overcome phobias of the sensory and sartorial varieties. | | |
|
| Mongolia’s annual Ice Festival gives locals a chance to take part in ice activities - and break out their new clothing. | | |
|
| © Copyright 2017, The REDEF Group |
|
|
