If you put something on and it doesn’t look good, the fashion police aren’t going to come and take you away. And if they do, you might have some fun in jail. | | | | | Kristen McMenemy gives a NYPD officer a smooch during fashion week, mid 1990s, NYC. (Catherine McGann/Hulton Archive/Getty Images) | | | | | | “If you put something on and it doesn’t look good, the fashion police aren’t going to come and take you away. And if they do, you might have some fun in jail.”
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| | rantnrave:// NYFW day 6 had people thinking about a quieter existence. At THOM BROWNE, the mood was calm, but it barely contained a simmering delirium. We looked out onto the set: a frozen pond just touched with haze, surrounded by bent reeds frozen in wool and bare branches that reached up toward the ceiling lights. It was an AMERICAN GOTHIC kind of calm—an uprightedness tinged with twisted fervor. A penguin motif ran throughout the collection in appliquéd pattern repeats and an optical black-and-white patent leather coat. There was astrakhan and sheared mink made to look like the striped trim on varsity jackets. A house on the hill with a white picket fence ran gleefully over two pieces of a skirt suit. Whole panels of a coat were stripped and replaced with sheer mesh so you couldn't tell if you were looking in, out, or through it. The collection took familiar codes and—through craft—made them unexpected. The clothes were marvelous. Houndstooth was rendered in sequins. Argyle was blown up and patched in astrakhan. Buttons dangled like paillettes. The soundtrack played through 4 acts with 4 moods, from ambient, to discoteqhue, to MARILYN MANSON, and finally to a golden-era HOLLYWOOD orchestral score. I detected some winking humor each time the tune changed. The last look was a bride-like figure wearing (what else?) a tuxedo puffer replete with a train, carried by a willing partner also wearing a version of the tux-puffer. The delirium. It was thoroughly Thom Browne. It's the shot in the arm NYFW needs. Thank you to TB and co., and thanks HANNAH... More noteworthy shows: NARCISO RODRIGUEZ, GABRIELA HEARST, DELPOZO. Don't sleep on Narciso. His clothes are beautiful... YEEZY SEASON 5. Read VÉRONIQUE HYLAND's review... Don't miss MADE's backstage views from NYFW... Best fashion week after-party goes to MAKI OH. The OXOSI FUJI AMBASSADORS and their dancers were amazing... Classic sneaker styles, classic phone styles, and now what? The NOKIA 3310 might be back for those who want to text like it's the year 2000. No scrolling here. Speaking of ways to reinvigorate fashion, what if smaller, local area networks brought a more intimate setting to the digital fervor of fashion week? NINTENDO is bringing back the LAN party, so why not?... Love BEAMS. This book takes us back through 40 years of the TOKYO-based retailer. They've partnered with DICKIES, DISNEY, Nokia, and L.L. BEAN to name a few... Shoutout to MARY WANG for her piece on how young designers manage to afford showing at fashion week... It happened. CANADA GOOSE IPO. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| From a prairie home to Mainline Philadelphia and the Alps, designers’ imaginations are all over the map. | | |
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| At Pyer Moss, the big clothes were swaggering, eccentric and comforting. | | |
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| The hub will include shared services and related uses to support its apparel firms and larger Sunset Park garment cluster. | | |
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| The Metropolitan Museum of Art |
| Join Tavi Gevinson and style icon Iris Apfel for a conversation moderated by Judith Thurman that explores what it means to be chic in the twenty-first century. Presented in conjunction with The Costume Institute exhibition Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations (on view May 10–August 19, 2012). | | |
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| Time to get familiar with border taxes and trade. We’ll be your guide. | | |
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| President Donald Trump told executives at major retail chains that he would swiftly submit a tax overhaul plan to stimulate the economy. | | |
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| The twice-a-year extravaganza still drips will glamour, but fashion insiders are finding new ways to improve it for the digital age. | | |
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| It’s an annual tradition that London Fashion Week opens every February with the newest of the new--the bang-fizz of The Central Saint Martins’s M.A. graduation show. These are the people who are destined to shape the fashion world--not least because they are talents gathered from everywhere. | | |
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| London Fashion Week pays tribute to the late designer talent through the creation of a namesake colour. | | |
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| Alternatives like Harlem Fashion Week have sprung up to give up-and-comers a chance. | | |
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| With gym culture sweeping the nation and beauty ideals changing fast, international sportswear giants and local players are gearing up for India’s biggest fitness boom to date. | | |
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| Mercifully, Kanye West reined things in this season. | | |
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| The Irish designer, who opens a store in SoHo this week, sets out on foot in New York to find inspiration. | | |
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| Creative director Pieter Mulier on designing the show’s most-talked-about look. | | |
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| Find out why Telfar doesn't care what you call it! Why fast food makes a good fashion collaboration and who needs logos anyway! | | |
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| "GS tells us to dig in our heels and push our individuality further." | | |
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| Q&A with beats maker Evan Baker aka Ritual Hedon for MADE. | | |
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| Fashionable is a word that the design industry has fallen out of love with somewhat. Apart from some of its more juvenile connotations, it’s simply too hard to define what really marks the ability to do fashion. | | |
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| Glossy magazines have a serious role to play. | | |
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| I was still in grad school and a teaching assistant in 1967. In grad school we were reading “Beowulf” and Chaucer, Alexander Pope and John Donne. As a teaching assistant I was given the “Introduction to Literature” and “European Literature in Translation” courses to teach. | | |
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