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Big vision, luxurious detail | | | Problem-solver | Classified by Vogue Italia as one of Turkey’s brightest designers, Tuba Ergin got her start as a consultant for local fashion brands, then moved on to international houses. Those experiences gave her a front-row seat to textile production, in which she witnessed the environmental toll of an industry that routinely uses heavy chemicals. That’s why Ergin — ahead of the curve in more ways than one — turned her focus to green fashion more than 15 years ago. Today, while other designers may talk a big game about sustainable this or green that, Ergin has put her money where her mouth is. |
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| | Let’s be real: Not everyone has time to go green | Ergin’s first brand was called Garden of Denim Design, or G.O.D.D. That line, which launched in 2006, found quick success. But while the pieces were made in Turkey, Ergin discovered that her largest markets were Japan, Germany and Canada. “People here didn’t even know what sustainable fashion was at the time,” she says — and she doesn’t blame them. People have other concerns in their daily lives besides the environment. Interest and awareness in green fashion, she says, is a function of “the circumstances these people are experiencing.” Yet Ergin has not let that reality dissuade her from her own calling, which is to upend the fashion industry by offering an alternative to poorly made, on-demand designs. |
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| | Happy union | Ergin uses natural and recycled fabrics, and she is on the hunt for a solar-powered factory to produce future designs. “I felt that it’s a responsibility on my shoulders to do my part and produce slow fashion that counters the crazy and harmful fast fashion,” she told OZY in a recent interview. As she serves this higher goal, Ergin relishes the creativity in designing garments that people want to buy and wear. From fibers like wool and vegetal leather, she makes jumpsuits, evening wear, bags and belts in a palette that is earthy yet playful. |
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Did You Know In last week’s green fashion poll, 43% of you said you would definitely rent clothing (or already have), while another 39% said maybe. A whopping 56% said you buy secondhand — although the vast majority (76%) buy some or all clothing new. On the question of whether fashion can ever truly be green, the answers were all across the board: Jury’s out. |
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| | She’s changing
the way business is done | | | | Sell less, waste less | At the beginning of every season, Ergin produces a small number of pieces to test demand, and later produces additional stock of the best-sellers. This is better for her business, because she doesn’t waste money on pieces her shoppers don’t want, and it reduces her environmental impact. She aims to have zero stock at the end of every season. Surprisingly, when Ergin does have extra inventory, she doesn’t slash prices. “Even when we have some pieces unsold, I don’t try to sell them on sale because this might push consumers to buy clothes they don’t need,” she explains. Instead, Ergin actually uses the unsold pieces in her next collection, altering styles or adding embroidery or other detail. Ergin doesn’t claim to be perfect. For commercial reasons she sometimes uses fabrics like polyester that are chemical-intensive, though she tries to use recycled polyester wherever possible. “Sustainability is always about choices. Even if you don’t do it 100%,” she says. |
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| | Wear it longer | As an entrepreneur who puts planet over profit, Ergin knows that she must offer clothing her customers will want to wear for many years and even bequeath to loved ones, so that fewer garments end up in landfills. |
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She charges boldly forward
| | | | Not scared of the numbers | Due to the quality of materials used, clothing from sustainability-oriented lines like Ergin’s are typically expensive. But she notes that higher prices are simply logical for items that will last much longer. A $25 piece that falls apart in a year or two is ultimately more expensive than a $100 piece that lasts a decade. Of course, many shoppers don’t have $100 to spend. |
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| | Neither the solutions nor the clothes come quickly | Ergin says the real challenge she faces is how to normalize the idea that women can wear the same dress on many occasions, even as social media stresses the value of having a hot new look. This remains an open question. Ergin has not sought to grow rich from her fashion line, but has continued to hold environmental goals, including preserving the planet for ensuing generations. She says that, with the continued work of activists, sustainable fashion will become more popular. “I’m happy with seeing more designers and fashion lines adopting the sustainability philosophy. It’s slow but we are slightly getting there.” |
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Community Corner
| Do you know an up-and-coming designer OZY should write about? Drop us a line. |
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| ABOUT OZY OZY is a diverse, global and forward-looking media and entertainment company focused on “the New and the Next.” OZY creates space for fresh perspectives, and offers new takes on everything from news and culture to technology, business, learning and entertainment. Curiosity. Enthusiasm. Action. That’s OZY! | |
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