Move over boxers, it’s the season of the bloomer

We’ve had exposed thongs, pants as pants and boxer shorts as shorts. But now there is a new, arguably even more unexpected underwear as outerwear trend. Welcome to the spring of big, frilly bloomers.

The 19th century undergarment has been thrust into the 21st century spotlight with a string of celebrities and influencers channelling their inner Folie Bergere dancer - including the actor Lily James, Alexa Chung and Camille Charrière. Social media is peppered with gen Z and millennials styling Victorian bloomers, found on vintage sites or on the high street with band T-shirts, crop tops and cardigans. Free People’s £88 “forever young pants”, which come in six different colours and are bedecked in a dramatic lace trim, are proving particularly popular.

But it is worth noting that not all the garments being touted as bloomers are in fact technically bloomers. The term has also become incorrectly interchangeable with pantaloons (18th century billowing shaped trousers typically fastened around the calf). In 2025, anything with a vaguely balloon-like shape, or featuring lace trimming at the hem, is being lumped together. Retailers such as ASOS and Urban Outfitters are selling pairs of “micro bloomer shorts”, while Alaïa has a pair of bloomer adjacent trousers for £1,560.

Chemena Kamali, the creative director of Chloé, could be hailed as the catalyst behind the revival. Her spring/summer ‘25 show last September featured several bloomers, in sheer lace and apricot silk-charmeuse tied around the ankle or tapered at the knee. Vogue described the look as having “the potential to reshape how young women think about sexy dressing in 2025.”

“They have an effortless charm and a playfulness to them, while being one of the most comfortable items in your wardrobe,” says Flora Sharp, director of Flora Mae, a London-based brand that handcrafts garments based on historical references using repurposed fabrics. Over the past year her ‘Verona’ bloomers have become the most popular item on her site. Her customers span New York to London, are aged between 18-34 and have, as Sharp describes, a “strong interest in fashion history and sustainability.”

That history charts the genesis of bloomers back to Amelia Bloomer, a New York born suffragist who, during the 1850s, inspired women to free themselves from tight-fitting corsets and crinolines and instead wear shortened dresses over Turkish-style pantaloons. In 1851, American suffragists drew international attention to the style when they wore bloomers to the World’s Peace Congress in London. It sparked wide backlash, with “Bloomerites” harassed and arrested on the street. Bloomer later reflected that the fury surrounding them was symbolic, it hinted at the larger-scale “usurpation of the rights of man.”

While other historical garments, including corsets and even chainmail, have re-emerged as modern trends, Sharp says bloomers are the first to have “an element of comfortability.” Her £65 versions are based on original Victorian designs but adapted for today. “Antique examples often have an impractical ‘split leg’ feature, are unrealistically small at the waist, and can be made of very fine cotton, making them see-through.” Using vintage cotton, Sharp adds an elasticated waist and an adjustable drawstring bow detail around the ankles in order to fit a wider range of bodies.

Fans seem to enjoy their versatility. Sharp says that they appeal to people “increasingly drawn to experimental and subversive styling”. They have “the potential to be layered in different ways, peeking from underneath a skirt as they may have been worn in the 19th century, or as a statement piece on their own.” One thing to consider before donning the bloomer? Passerbys might still think it’s blooming mad.

What’s hot – and what’s most definitely not – this week

Going up

Delft tiles | The new way to commemorate your favourite furry friend is with some hand-painted earthenware. Think we’ll stick to zellige.

Fumiko Enchi | The late Japanese writer’s novel The Waiting Years was chosen by Miu Miu for its latest literary club. Prepare to see its distinctive red and white cover on your commute.

Sunscreen sticks | Because lunch outside season is finally here. See E.L.F’s “invisi-stick” that delivers SPF50 without that dreaded white cast.

Going down

The chairdrobe | The Row’s new homeware venture includes a simple black clothing rail on wheels. Easily emulated by a quick trip to Ikea.

Tote bags | To celebrate his new album Bon Iver has released a range of merch that includes a tin of smoked salmon.

Super wide selfies | Just when we’d got the hang of the .5 camera setting along comes the resurgence of photo booths. And this time it’s all about the shot-from-above angle.

Chloe Mac Donnell, deputy fashion and lifestyle editor, solves your wardrobe dilemmas

Q: I’m pregnant and, as much as I love Rihanna’s approach to maternity dressing, I’d prefer to keep my growing bump covered. I’m looking for shirts I could potentially still wear after but trying to avoid fast fashion. Any suggestions on where to hunt? – Martha

A: The men’s section of your local charity shop and vintage stores would be a good place to start. Stripes and checks are a classic. Look for preppy brands such as Ralph Lauren and Gant. Set alerts on secondhand platforms too – most let you filter by brand and size.

Independent designers will nail your brief too. Caroline Dickinson sources vintage shirts then screen prints them with her own designs in south London. You’ll get plenty of of wear out of them postpartum too.

Got your own style question? Send it to [email protected].