Falling for Germany’s Hamptons

Jack Ezon, founder of EMBARK Beyond travel agency in New York City, says that for the first time in his 22-year career, his company’s September bookings to Europe have surpassed those of August. “Travel to Europe in September and October is up 34% over 2019 and 37% over 2018,” Ezon told OZY. Nearly half of his European-bound clients are looking to extend summer in storied Mediterranean locales like the Amalfi Coast and the French Riviera as well as Lake Como, Mykonos and even the Balearic Island of Ibiza this autumn.

Ezon attributes the continued strength of the U.S. dollar — in addition to other factors, including pent-up demand — for “keeping Americans laser focused on Europe” this season. And they’re on a mission. “Clients are flocking to outlet shops outside of Florence with empty suitcases like they did when the lira was the currency du jour,” he says.

Yet, amid all this frenzy, there are still a few hidden gems — places largely undiscovered by most American tourists.

Planning a trip around a theme — say, wine — is a thing right now, says Tania Swasbrook, co-founder of Vgari Lifestyle, a Travelworld International affiliate. She suggests skipping French go-tos, like the Loire and Bordeaux, this fall in favor of something different. “Around Reims, you have six or seven of the best Champagne houses in the world,” she told OZY. She points to such properties as the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, overlooking the hills and vineyards of Champagne, and the region’s brand new Mutigny Resort, among other options for a singular stay.

Renting a car for a road trip that takes you south to the stunning medieval town of Troyes and onward to Chablis and Dijon (Burgundy wines, bien sûr), perhaps ending up in the gastronomic haven of Lyon, makes for a spectacularly scenic route, she says.

Swasbrook and Ezon both swear by Slovenia in the fall months as an alternative to the busier Adriatic destination of Croatia. “Ljubljana is one of the most unexpected cities to visit,” says Ezon.

Slovenia got on the international radar when it was named the European Green Capital in 2016, says Swasbrook. “It’s still stunningly unspoiled, what Croatia was for a while,” she says. “You can see it in the fact that they don’t have really that many high-end properties. You see it in the hospitality of the people, too.”

Just a 2.5-hour drive from Venice, it can easily be combined with a trip in Northern Italy, too, he says.

Swasbrook points to Slovenia’s compact size and “driveability” as part of what makes it so compelling for an easy fall getaway, too, with the bonus of golden vineyards in the equation. “Gone are the days when you’re jumping between countries; people don’t want to do that anymore,” she says. Slovenia makes it easy to cover a lot of ground in a short amount of time.

After exploring Ljubljana, she recommends basing yourself at Ikador Luxury Boutique Hotel & Spa, along Slovenia’s diminutive but dazzling coastline, and visiting Maribor, home to the world’s oldest known grape-producing vine (the Žametovka grape), too.

Let the crowds in search of a still-summertime feel descend on the predictable Greek island destinations of Santorini and Mykonos, and head instead to the mainland city of Thessaloniki, suggests Ezon. Greece’s gateway to the Balkans, the country’s second-largest city hugs the North Aegean coastline and is rich in Jewish history, with an incredible food scene to boot, he says. “Thessaloniki is much more of a destination for Europeans,” Ezon says. “You’re not going for the beach, you’re going for a great city.”

Consider planning a detour out of the city to Mount Olympus during October or November for autumnal colors and great hiking, too.

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Torino (aka Turin) tends to get overlooked in favor of sexier Italian cities that hardly need to be named. But the Northern Italian city and surrounding Piemonte (Piedmont) region are particularly appealing during the autumn months. This is truffle season, when the International Alba White Truffle Fair (Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco d’Alba) stages all kinds of events around the region that revolve around the decadent tuber — from cooking classes and chef dinners to tasting events, markets and more.

Splurge on a stay at five-star sustainable property, Casa di Langa, south of Torino, says Ezon, and you’ll have the Barolo and Barbaresco wine regions at your doorstep. To the east, and also in the Piemonte region, Nordelaia, with just 12 rooms built around an 800-year-old farmhouse, promises more of Northern Italy’s gastronomic good life (and truffles galore).

Berlin’s outsized reputation for partying and culture makes it a natural pick for a getaway in Northern Germany. But Hamburg, less than two hours by train to the northwest, has an under-the-radar, gritty-meets-luxe appeal that surprises travelers. It’s a great walking town and full of urban parks and beaches around the Elbe River and Alster Lake that shimmer with gold and crimson foliage come fall, too.

After some time in the city (and perhaps taking in a performance at the iconic Elbphilharmonie), consider heading to Germany’s northernmost state, Schleswig-Holstein, for a wellness getaway on the gorgeous 22-mile-long North Sea island of Sylt, often referred to as “the Hamptons of Germany.” Ezon calls it “a great spot to detox and retox,” with spa hotels, biking trails, Michelin-starred restaurants and miles of dune-backed beaches to explore.

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