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CHARLESTON

Back in 1996 when he launched the restaurant as its chef and owner, Stehling thought he'd have to offer fried chicken because he was doing Southern food, but it felt burdensome and maybe even clichéd. Even worse, he worried it "was going to open me up to comparisons to Church's and KFC and the gas stations that had chicken. I felt insecure about it all and d... read more...

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