Despite the country’s reputation for fine dining, its most popular fast-food chain’s market share is only rising. Sharply opinionated waiters, beautifully set tables and long, leisurely meals are the hallmarks of classic French dining, a culinary tradition that’s been the epitome of elegance, at least to Americans, for decades. But America’s food culture — fast, utilitarian, unworried about terroir or provenance — may have had a greater influence on Gallic palates than the other way around. McDonald’s is a popular tourist drop-in, as exhausted travelers revel in both its Americanness — everything just where you left it — and its slight French touches, like macarons for dessert. But French people love their American fast food too. “Metro, boulot, dodo” goes a popular French phrase describing busy city life: subway, job, sleep. But it’s not uncommon to hear a slightly different version: Metro, boulot, McDo. Fast food now accounts for an estimated $62.2 billion of France's $102 billion restaurant industry. McDonald's alone takes in $5.5 billion, the highest turnover of any French restaurant group. |